It seemed that no sooner had I shut my eyes than a rooster with laryngitis began to crow hoarsely from directly beneath me under the house. I rose and discovered that Atheya was already up and had disappeared somewhere. Because of the restriction I could not leave the house to take pictures in the morning light so I had to make due with photographing the adorable nieces and some of the cousins in silhouette.
Before long Atheya reappeared and with the guidance of one of the cousins, I snuck back out of the camp and we were on our way again.
When we arrived at Nobo village about midday, the first order of business was to visit the school where Atheya had the pleasure of informing one of the students that he had qualified for a scholarship to study at an Open Society Institute sponsored school, OSI is a non-profit group that provides education for refugees. For most refugees, 10th grade is as far as they can go, but a few of the best and brightest are chosen to study further in OSI sponsored programs. Because they are not Thai citizens and therefore do not have documentation for travel or study in Thailand, the refugee children are limited to what is offered in the camps by NGO's or western travelers who generously offer their time and teach English or other subjects.
The young man beamed when he got the news, confiding to me that he had been waiting for an opportunity like this for a long time. After graduation from 10th standard in a refugee camp, the choices are few. One can work illegally for low wages in a Thai factory, languish in the boredom of the refugee camp, or join the rebel Karen National Liberation Army and fight. Many of the women end up in Thailand's notorious sex trade and increasingly drugs like heroin and speed are a problem. There are a lot of bright young Karens, hungry for an opportunity, whose talent will never be developed.
Atheya told the boys the purpose of my visit and after an exchange in Karen language they agreed to take us to see the local KNLA contingent.
It was hot. So hot that any amount of movement would cause perspiration to pour off me in buckets, although I never saw Atheya break a sweat the whole time we worked together. When we arrived at the bamboo hut that the KNLA was using as a command center for the area the leader took one look at my peeling, sunburned skin and laughed, remarking that I reminded him of the difficulties that the British had faced during the second world war. There were about 8 or 9 guys lounging around in hammocks and a couple of women. Although clothed only in longyi, these guys radiated toughness and competence. There were a few radios around and I recall being vaguely disappointed at the fact that they looked pretty much like any ordinary Karens. Like all Karens they were very friendly and hospitable, and their teasing was good natured.
